Recipes

My recipes for June revolve around the most quintessential flavours of English summertime. As evocative as the whack of willow against leather on the village green, the growl of lawnmowers on the Sabbath, or strawberries and cream and the scent of evening charcoal fires, these delicate, Lemony Muscat scented flowers are blooming in the hedgerows lining the fields and lanes of Dorset and for the next few weeks will be at their prime.

Revered by the old people as a ward against witches, Elders were used by Saxons to light fires (aeld is Saxon for fire). Steeped in folklore the elder is otherwise known as the Judas tree Ð it is believed to have supported him during his atonement. The edible part the flower has lots of wonderful healing properties. It is used traditionally in complexion creams for the purpose of softening, cleansing and beautifying the skin. It can be prescribed as a cooling agent and anti-inflammatory, for treating burns and scalds as well as rashes and chilblains. Many people drink the tea for colds, flu and hay fever as it also has immune stimulating properties. It is also known for its treatment of diabetes as the elderflower extract encourages insulin activity.

At a time when we are inundated with news of an economy spiralling out of control, food and fuel prices soaring there can be no better tonic to ward off those miserable men at the BoE. So why not go out to the hedgerows and bottle a little (or a lot) of this essence of summertime and you can use it in recipes such as gooseberry fool, in sorbets, or just spooned over scoops of vanilla ice-cream, or use it to sweeten and flavour the fruit for a crumble.

Try it in vinaigrette - mix with wine vinegar, a touch of mustard, salt, pepper and a light olive oil.

For the best results you should try and pick young elderflowers early in the day from cool shady spots.

Elderflower cordial

Ingredients
20 heads of elderflower
1.8kg granulated sugar, or caster sugar
1.2 litres water
2 unwaxed lemons available from good delis!
75g citric acid also availale from good delis!

Method
1. Place the elderflowers in a large bowl.
2. Put the sugar into a pan with the water and bring up to the boil, stirring until the sugar has completely dissolved.
3. While the sugar syrup is heating, pare the zest of the lemons off in wide strips and toss into the bowl with the elderflowers. Slice the lemons, discard the ends, and add the slices to the bowl. Pour over the boiling syrup, and then stir in the citric acid. Cover with a cloth and then leave at room temperature for 24 hours.
4. Next day, strain the cordial through a sieve lined with muslin (or a new j-cloth rinsed out in boiling water), and pour into thoroughly cleaned glass or plastic bottles. Screw on the lids and pop into the cupboard ready to use.

Dilute the cordial with cool water still or sparkling. For something a touch more sprightly, add a shot of gin or vodka and a lemon slice, or add it to white wine and sparkling water to make an elderflower spritzer.

Now for the less well known but stunningly delicious Elderflower fritters

Elderflower fritters

Ingredients
200g Plain Flour
250ml (half pint) milk
medium sized free-range egg
Elderflower Heads - 2-3 per person - with enough of a stalk to hold onto 50g sugar
Salt and pepper

Method
1. Mix all the ingredients apart from the elderflower
2. Heat some oil in a pan or deep fat fryer, Dip flower head in batter and fry until golden brown

A pinch of cinnamon can be added to the batter to add extra flavour and the fritters can be rolled in sugar although this is not always needed if there is sugar in the batter.